Steady progress, will do better the more he tries....
Almost exactly 80 km today and as there's an Internet Cafe bang opposite my accommodation, I'll take advantage. I know I have at least 3 regular browsers.
I was woken by the mullah again , this time at 4.40 am, which was just 45 mins too early for me...I did say a prayer though. Honest.
I left Iringa in the dark at 6 with head torch on. Lots of people out running, which surprised me; before the traffic gets going I suppose. There was the usual glorious African sun rise around 6.30. I then got a stream of "Good morning!"s from the kids going to school. Even from the little tynies about 3 foot tall, on their own and with gorgeous smiling faces. You could take 'em home with you ! I even got a couple of "Good morning, teacher !" Doh! I must still bear the marks of one.
Had a breakfast of rice, beans, pumpkin leaves and a lump of beef around noon. No problem as I ate enough for 10 men yesterday. I had to take my Swiss army knife to the beef but it tasted fine.
Things turned sour when I "lost" my phone in the afternoon. My usually meticulous packing system had failed. I blundered badly by putting it in a rear pannier where it normally never goes. It's strictly a bar-bag item. Anyway, to whoops of joy, it turned up 3 hours later....
The road has deteriorated from excellent to pretty crummy in the course of the day. There are also lots of road-works as this section gets improved. There's only just room for two HGVs so cyclists have to leave the road when the klaxon sounds. It's a jungle out there.
I met my first long-distance cyclist this morning, David Conroy, from BC, Canada. He's been cycling around for 3 years now and has a good thick layer of dust on him. He gave me some good tips, some local medicine and some Malawian Kwatchas (currency). He's also the proud owner of a 30 trillion dollar Zimbabwian note.
Mafinga is a fascinating dump like most Tanzanian towns. (I've completely reassessed Keighley). Seriously though, we have some 5 star, beautiful, user-friendly towns in Europe. The dust, noise, tat and chaos of African towns are to be gasped at....If you ask around though you can usually get what you want as they are so dammed helpful.
My digs on the other hand are clean, quiet and airy and I'm getting on well with the manageress. She speaks not a word of English and my Swahili is still at the "Hello" "Food" "Water" "Big" "Good" stage. But she runs a tidy guest house and at 15000 TS for a night (6 pounds) who's complaining ?
And so to supper...
Hej Robin, it is nice to see u r still on the move :). According to the map Mafinga is right before Sao Hill Forest Reserve. watch out for those animals and have a nice trip!
ReplyDeleteGreeting from Mike & Heleen!!
Robin - am following progress via good old Google (must get out more) and am rapidly becoming a Tanzaniaphile. It started with the music, which I posted on Facebook. The link is http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naUZXvCdnvA&feature=share
ReplyDeletewhich features a performer called Bushoke. Stirring stuff. And then the remarkable landscape - photos courtesy of Google maps - and then the dust and the endless movement of people. Got intrigued by a place a few yards south east of the centre of Mafinga - a school/mission for children, called the Salesians of Don Bosco Mafinga parish. Don Bosco, born Giovanni Melchiorre Bosco in Italy in 1815, was a catholic priest who had a 'mission' to help disadvantaged children. Whatever the rights and wrongs of the missionaries to Africa, there can be no doubting his sincerity and good works. He was said to have been inspired by a dream where an old man said to him "You will have to win these friends of yours not with blows, but with gentleness and kindness." So, emissary of colonialism or decent bloke? Oddly enough, Don Bosco's Salesians (a branch of catholicism) have communities in Macclesfield, Bootle and Bolton!
On a lighter note how are you doing bug-wise? Thought about you in the middle of the night as I was pursuing a mosquito around the room. Any good insect bites yet?? JKE
Hi Robin,
ReplyDeleteIt's Nick Priestley here. Mum sent me the link to your blog to help them to figure out how to post a comment. I've ended up reading your entire blog and now you have a fourth regular browser.
Good to hear it's going well so far, mum and dad mentioned you were cycling in Africa but I hadn't appreciated the scale of your journey. I've recently taken to road biking myself and wondered about going on a casual (ish) cycling holiday myself for a week.
Anyway I've added you to my favourites and will enjoy reading about your progress, best of luck.
Hi Robin,
ReplyDeleteAs you see you have 3 Priestley readers now, the audience is growing. Nick's address is nicholas.priestley@googlemail.com. He has enlightened us on how to speak to you.
If you wnat to know some more words of Chinjanja/Chichewa-we have a book!
J and C