Easier day than anticipated

I arrived in Tukuyu earlier than expected (3pm), met a helpful guy called Gwamaka ("Power") as I pedaled into town and he kindly showed me a decent guest-house, showed me where to eat and, finally the only internet cafe in town. Without him I'd have found none of these as you have to cross the football field, go up a muddy ginnel, past the joiner's shop etc . I bought him a beer for his kindness so apologies if this starts to ramble....

Gwamaka normally takes European tourists up the local mountains where there are big waterfalls, volcanic lakes and forests. It's the end of the rainy season in this corner of Tanzania so his busy season has not begun yet.

I left Mbeya at 7 am and went mainly uphill for 3 hours. By 10 am I was probably a couple of thousand feet higher at least and it was distinctly chilly and "european". By which I mean the crops in this cool green place were peas, beans, carrots and spuds. Also there were cows and donkeys in abundance for the first time. Between the fields were hedges of hydrangeas, whose blooms were just beginning to fade. The fields are full of people tilling, cropping, planting and so on, so the whole effect is a bit reminiscent of a Breugel - v picturesque. Or even a Van Gogh.

From the top, which is the watershed between the central Tanzanian rivers and Lake Malawi, it was a long, long descent of maybe 20 kms. I put on 3 layers of clothing, instead of my usual one, and was well chilled at the bottom where it was a different agricultural landscape. Down here it's mainly bananas and tea. Streams run down off the mountains, so it's the greenest, most fertile bit of Tanzania to date and I can see why it has a small tourist industry. Since Dar the rivers have been mostly dry beds as it's the dry season already elsewhere. There were even a few spots of rain this pm.

The very useful centre stand dropped of my bike at the end of the long downhill and a few turns of thread have been torn of its vital main screw . It's gone back on though, just. Also the tyres seem to be loosing air and there's a worrying squeak from the front wheel bearings. Must investigate when fully sober (tomorrow).

So there you have Day 20: about 75 km over the day. With luck I'll be in Malawi, or at least at the border, at this time tomorrow.

Nice to see Wayne nod one in last night. England have an enthusiastic following in Tanzania. I think they appreciate the black guys in the team. There are a lot of Arsenal supporters too.

Meeting Gwamaka at 6pm for more food and beer. Thanks for reading. Will write more from the first overnight stop with internet access in Malawi.